To celebrate our home-grown talent and encourage more of the same, Scotland has just staged the inaugural Scottish Fashion Awards, in the Great Hall of Stirling Castle. The event attracted a virtual who’s who of leading fashion experts from around the world, including Alexandra Shulman, (editor of British Vogue), Jean Marc Loubier (the man who introduced fashion to the house of Louis Vuitton) and Scots-born Alastair Johnston (vice-chairman of IMG, owner of the world’s number one model agency). It wasn’t the celebrity judging panel making it’s way down the obligatory red tartan carpet though that drew the crowds. Instead, all eyes were firmly fixed on the catwalk to see the cream of Scotland’s fashion industry strutting its stuff.

Consider this: the designer behind legendary fashion house Escada is a Scot, Brian Rennie, from Dundee; Sonia Rykiel’s creative director is Glasgow-based April Crichton; Scottish designer Graeme Black is creative director for Salvatore Ferragamo and the four-times winner of the New Generation Award is a Scot, Jonathan Saunders. So, who are these trend setting designers and how has Scotland influenced them?

After graduating in fashion at Edinburgh University in 1989, Graeme Black became an assistant designer working in London for, among others, John Galliano and Zandra Rhodes. Moving to Italy in 1993 he worked as a designer for Les Copains and eventually moved through the ranks at Giorgio Armani to become head designer at Borgonuovo Black Label. In 2004 he set up his own independent studio in Milan working on collections for international womenswear companies but still remains at the helm at Ferragamo.

Graeme is extremely grateful for his education at Edinburgh College of Art (ECA). “I had an amazing time at ECA. Not only did I get a strong sense of the artistic side of fashion design, but there was also a vital emphasis on the business side. This has been invaluable for me.” In addition to working for Salvatore Ferragamo, his own line is now available in major fashion outlets including Browns and has been seen in Tokyo, San Francisco, Milan, New York and London. So what does he think Scotland brings to the fashion industry? “Scotland really has the best textiles industry in the world. When I was working at Armani, we would regularly look to the Scottish textile companies for their high quality Linton Tweed. Their quality is second to none.” Graeme was nominated during Scottish Fashion Awards as Scottish Designer of the Year. How did Graeme react when he heard about his nomination? “I was very honored to be nominated. I think the awards are great for Scotland and great for fashion. This positive message about fashion in Scotland can only be good for everyone.” So, what does the future look like for Scotland? “I think it is really exciting right now. It is important for Scotland to have an International outlook. It is great to see that Edinburgh now has a Harvey Nichols.”

Jonathan Saunders went from Glasgow School of Art to Central St Martin’s graduating with an MA in Printed textiles, which subsequently won him the Lancome Colour Awards in 2002. Having had stints at Ungaro and Pucci, Saunders inimitable fashion and flair soon caught the attention of US and UK Vogue.

Has Scotland had an impact on his heralded fashion designs? “Absolutely. Scotland has had a massive impact, not only on me, but on all Scottish fashion designers. You can’t help but be influenced by cities such as Glasgow and Edinburgh. Their fantastic array of architectural styles has had a direct impact on all types of designers, from furniture to fashion. When you look at the designs coming from Scotland – the cut, the shape, the form, the materials used – you can tell that they have been inspired by Scotland.”

Jonathan is extremely proud of his time at Glasgow College to Art. “The fashion design education in Scotland is excellent. I really appreciate Glasgow College to Art’s approach that focuses heavily on building technique skills, as well as creating new ideas.”

Today, Saunders coordinates designing his own label alongside consulting for some of the largest fashion houses in Europe, including Pucci and Chloé.

See Jonathan Saunders latest collection here.

How did Jonathan feel about the success of the recent Fashion Awards? “The Fashion Awards were great for Scotland, as it simply highlighted that some of the biggest names in fashion today are Scots. It was also long overdue that our fashion design education system to receives the plaudits it highly deserves. I also think that it is hugely important that Scottish designers who are living abroad and making a massive impression in the international fashion industry were recognised. Designers may move from Scotland to London, Paris or Milan but they are ultimately successful thanks to what they learned here and it’s great that this has been celebrated.”

Jonathan is regarded as one of the most influential designers to have come out of Scotland. His collections are stocked in Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Liberty, Selfridges, Matches, Joseph and Browns, not to mention numerous other sites in Paris, USA, the Middle East and Japan. His work is now the highlight of London Fashion week.

Brian Rennie, born in Dundee, Scotland, in 1963, initially attended Ravensbourne College of Art and Design in Kent, and was one of the College's youngest graduates, having gained his masters degree at the age of just 23. Three years later he attended the Royal College of Art and left with numerous prizes. Rennie is a well known name in the fashion circuit and since 1994, he has headed a team of 30 people from 15 different countries at Escada.

His advice is requested by stars all over the world from J-Lo through to Kim Basinger, Catherine Zeta Jones and Geena Davis. “It’s great to see our outfits on stars at the Oscars and Grammys. When we did J-Lo’s wedding, I was very much involved from early sketches to the finished design.” A great success for Rennie who became interested in fashion at the tender age of 12 when he loved sketching the saloon girl dresses he saw in American cowboy movies. While still a student at RCA, Margaretha Ley, the founder of Escada, asked him if would be interested in designing dresses for the firm. At first Rennie thought he wanted to live in Paris or New York, not Munich, but the German city quickly became a second home. He worked closely with Ley, taking over design responsibility after her death in 1992.

“I joined Esacda in 1986 and basically worked my way up. Now as director at Escada I look after not only fashion designs but also everything from fragrances and store design to diamonds. Fashion today is about so much more than just designing clothes.” Home is where the heart is though, for Brian. Whilst he now lives in Germany, there are some things that will never leave him. “There is nothing quite like going home. It feels great to get on a plane home and hear the Scottish voices again. I was home last Christmas but what I miss most about Scotland is the sense of humour.” Brian was over for the awards and was surprised to say the least, when the letter came through. “I couldn’t believe it. I actually thought it was a wind up. It was such a great evening with great judges and set in Stirling Castle…wow! It was also great to see that Scots who are very much involved in the big fashion houses were being recognised. I’m also glad that the job itself as fashion designer was now being recognised as a good job to do. When I started out, my family were a bit surprised at my desire to design clothes!”

So now that Brian heads up Escada, do his designs have a Scottish influence? “Very much so. We use Neill Johnstone for all our tweeds. They really supply the best tweeds in the world. We also use the amazing Scottish photographer Albert Watson, who also won a Life Achievement Award at the Scottish Fashion Awards. There is a down to earth nature with Scots that make them such a joy to work with.”

What does he think of fashion in Scotland today? “Glasgow is very cool. You just have to walk around Glasgow to see how much they appreciate their labels and love dressing up at the weekends there. Glasgow also has a great club culture.” In the past, Rennie had used nations, including US, Greece and Scotland, as themes for his collections. He is clearly proud of his Scottish roots and often likes to wear his kilt on special occasions. Escada’s outfits are adorned by the world’s biggest stars at the biggest nights including the Oscars. Scotland has to be proud that one its own is such a leading light in fashion. So is there a final tip that he would give women with a hectic lifestyle? "The rule for everyday clothing is that it has to be practical, not provocative and yet not too boring. Accessories, such as bags, also play an important role. Further, I believe fashion without accessories is like a concert without music, so these have to be chosen carefully."

Having studied at Edinburgh College of Art (ECA) and then St Martin’s College of Art and Design in London, April Crichton is undoubtedly one of fashion’s leading lights. How did she find Edinburgh as a student? “It was my first move from home and it was great to be surrounded by like-minded people. The teachers were working artists themselves. The talent coming from the college is amazing. Their drawing skills are truly exceptional. ECA is set in stunning surroundings, with studios that look directly on to the castle. I couldn’t believe my luck when I saw it. It was such an inspiration.”

Headhunted upon graduation, April moved to Paris to work directly for Mme Rykiel, the French designer who had been elected ‘Queen of Knits’ by American publication Women’s Wear Daily. So what does she think of Scotland’s fashion and textiles? “Scotland has so much going for it right now. Glasgow in particular has a vibrant culture of young artists. Most of them enjoy the city so much that they stay on after graduation. There is so much inspiration. You can’t help but be influenced by the atmosphere, Mackintosh architecture and the exhibitions held in venues such as The Modern Institute. In terms of textiles, Scotland has an unrivalled reputation. We always aim to use Scottish tweed in our collections. There a few companies around the Borders who are great to work with, as they are not only the best, but are flexible.”

Learning her trade with a Parisian fashion house, April’s stature grew from the ranks of Design Assistant to Design Director (and indeed in fashion circles) – ‘right hand woman’. In 1999 April took the helm at ‘Sonia – Sonia Rykiel’. Living in Glasgow with her 2 children, April combines motherhood and fashion design working at Sonia Rykiel in Paris several days a week. How does she find life living in two very different cities? “The contrast between Glasgow and Paris for me is very healthy. Fashion is clearly very important in Glasgow. There are shops in Glasgow that you can’t find anywhere in the world. If you are looking for vintage clothing, there is no better place, not even in London.”

How did she feel about her nomination for the Designer of the Year Award? “I was deeply honoured and also surprised. I had no idea that anyone knew about my work. I was happily working away quietly oblivious to it all. It was great to see those who were taught here and who were now working across the world, being recognised.”

With over 20 years experience with Sonia Rykiel, April Crichton has certainly made her own mark with one of France’s most prominent fashion houses.

Amongst the winners were Glaswegian Christopher Kane, graduate of Central St Martins School of Design and now winner of the Scottish Fashion Awards Young Designer/New Talent Award. Christopher, whose shocking pink and black bondage-lingerie collection wowed London Fashion Week in February and who now works for Donatella Versace, is understandably bullish about Scotland’s fashion prospects, especially with so many Scottish designers making such a big difference both in UK and internationally. With his debut collection launching at the next London Fashion Week in September, Christopher’s hopes for his own future are suitably upbeat: “I want to build my business ‘Christopher Kane’ into a successful designer label, as well as maybe designing for a fashion house,” says Christopher. “Hopefully, more Scottish designers will follow suit” – no pun intended.

Other awardees of the Fashion Awards included Jennifer Lang, winner of the Scottish Fashion Awards Textile/Cashmere Designer Of The Year, Scotland’s very own supermodel Kirsty Hume and Glasgow songstress Lulu who received the accolade Scottish Fashion Awards Icon. Dressed in McQueen tailcoat over jeans, Lulu who picked up a clutch of fashion awards during the Sixties and Seventies on both sides of the Atlantic, said that style had always been important in her house. As a girl she remembered how her mother divided people into two camps: those with ‘bags of style’ and those with ‘nae style’.

The nation, it seems, is threaded through with talent and opportunity and there's absolutely no doubt that Scotland is more likely than most places to produce the next John Galliano, Alexander McQueen or Viktor & Rolf.

Courtesy of Scottish Government - Scotland.org .

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